Week 5

Our assignment in Flat Pattern was to draft and sew a short puff sleeve. I have included photos of the steps for those who are curious.

First step: Using a straight sleeve sloper, trace the back half of the cap/underarm to the length you want the sleeve (minus the cuff).

Second Step: Using the slash and spread method, divide the sleeve in half lengthwise, then divide the right half into 3 equal sections and slash to about a 1/4" away from the bottom.

Third Step: Draw straight grainline  down center of paper and touch bottom of sleeve to that line. Then, spread equally to create puff at top. I put an inch in between each section and a 1/2" at center since it will be doubled when opened as full sleeve. Then add at least 1/3 of what you added to the width into the height. So since I added 3.5 inches to width, I added about 1 1/4" to the height above 3rd section. Then, using a french curve, true to nothing (meaning draw a curve to touch) at the 1st section. Then, blend the rest of the curve to basically follow the underarm curve.

Final Step: Put grainline on fold of paper and trace to both sides. Voila, a puff sleeve. I added two petals and a cuff. The cuff should be the measurement of your arm, where the bottom of the sleeve will hit plus 1/2" for ease and the cuff will be on the fold. We used 1/2" seam allowances. Cut out fabric and sew!

The sleeve goes with a bodice and skirt that I will showcase later. I included a few of my drawings from Life Drawing. Its always shocking at first to see someone naked, and then I start to think like, "wow, thats a graceful curve on her calf." Silly.

Probably my favorite, but most stressful, part of the week was working on my illustration project. It was also doubling as a project for my Art Concentration application, so it was doubly stressful! But, as it developed I liked it more and more. Below is a photo of the rendering process.

My new favorite technique for rendering denim: put a piece of denim under the page and use colored pencil on top to pick up the pattern of the twill!

The final project. First page: Mood Page

Second page: Swatches

Third and Fourth pages: Figures and Flats

You like? Well, I hope the Art Concentration Panel liked it!

Week 4 Already?!

I was hoping I would not get sick for the entire year, since my program is crazy even for the most able-bodied person. So on Monday, I thought my allergies were acting up and by Tuesday, my head felt like a balloon attached to a wavering string of a body. I was not about to miss a class since attendance is something they don't mess around about, so I dragged myself out of bed and into Structured Silhouettes. Luckily, I had almost completely finished my dress over the weekend, and all I had to do was true-in the hem on the flare skirt. I got an A on it, but all I really wanted at that moment was my bed. The professor was very nice to let me go home early after the grading. Below is my dress with a stylized collar, stylized armhole, buttonhole extension and flare skirt.

The next assignment was a creative dart-manipulation bodice. Basically, we were to drape the excess fabric, that is normally put into waist-line and bust-line darts, in a different form. There was so much variation within the class, which is really exciting and inspiring to see how differently everyone thinks when we were all given the same lesson. There were tucks and pleats aplenty, oodles of bloussants, scads of shirring, a couple collars, and a slew of stylized necklines. I kind of threw mine together (in 5 hours) the night before class, due to being sick, so I didn't get to play as much as I would have liked. It still turned out well, and I got another A! I pleated at the front and back waistline, and at the front shoulder and stylized the neckline on the front. I think it would make a cute vest, although, had I the time I would have stylized the armhole as well.

Our next assignment is to do a creative princess bodice. I really like playing with the style tape to change the mood of the bodice, as pictured below. It is interesting to know that as long as you stay within an inch of the apex and ease the excess into that area, the princess seam eliminates the need for darts. I'm learning a lot!!

I can't express how exciting it is to me to be able to design creatively and then learn the technical skills needed to manifest those ideas. So although I was sick, my classes helped keep my spirits up while my body recuperated. Even my Flat Pattern class became exciting when we learned how to manipulate our straight sleeve sloper to create a puff sleeve! The diagram below looks complicated but its pretty logical once you learn it.

I have mounds of homework but at least its fun! More to come...

Flea Fun

I welcomed the weekend with open arms and I had the best of intentions to do homework on Saturday... but I just never got around to it! My plan was to get a bite to eat with Briana and then go to the classroom to work on draping. We decided to get out of our neighborhood and go to the Pink Pony in the Lower East Side but on the way we turned one street early and "serendipity!" a flea market! It was the most fun. I had to dig through piles of could-be-treasures just so I could know I wasn't missing something that I couldn't live without. Briana and I had a lot of fun trying on some of the madness. I really liked a pair of crazy vintage harem pants but the guy wanted $20 bucks and yes, that was out of my price range.

I love old photos. Digital just isn't the same.

We finally made it out of the flea market and to the Lower East Side but then we ran into a Young Designers Market. I especially loved this designer's aesthetic and craftsmanship.

Destination: Pink Pony. Delicious food, great atmosphere, relaxation.

I know I'm probably biased because Craig lived in the Lower East Side and I've spent the most time there, but I really feel at home in that neighborhood. It has so much personality, I just love it.

And then I had a girl's night, New York style! I still miss my girls back in K.C. though!

Left: Katherin, Middle left: Me, Middle right: Briana, Right: Virginia

I'm in the Mood

I finally made it to Mood Fabrics! Our assignment was to get swatches from Mood for an upcoming project in Fashion Art & Design. Our project centers around two prints, a solid, and a denim, so I wore this bold print dress as inspiration. There was so much beautiful fabric, I was like a child in a candy store.

I also met Swatch, Mood's mascot. If you aren't going to scratch his back or feed him, he just kind of ignores you. Below is Swatch posing for the camera with whom I believe is the owner of the store.

I also had to complete 3 croquis in bathing suits for that same class, so I thought I'd show you different stages of that process. I did most of the work on them at my work study job in the little cubby shown below. Fashion Art & Design is my favorite class. I could sit and draw these pretty ladies all day long. That is part of the reason that I have decided to apply to the Art Concentration. Also, someone suggested that it was a good idea since I will have a more extensive paper portfolio after one year than someone in the one-year Apparel Concentration. Most importantly, I think that is the kind of job I can see myself doing after I graduate, designing clothes and illustrating.

My friend, Christine, got hit by a moving truck when she was crossing the street last week! So crazy, but luckily she just has some rainbow bruises and not anything more serious.

She is healing well and all smiles in draping class.

I have to admit, I had a meltdown about halfway through the week due to the amount of work that we were being assigned. But I pulled it together, and although I was exhausted from staying up late doing homework, I was in good spirits by the end of the week. I enjoy my Soft Silhouettes draping class since its a slower pace and the teacher explains things very clearly. This was my first experience draping a pant and it went very well.

Structured Silhouettes kind of gives me anxiety attacks sometimes because it is so fast paced. However, I am retaining what I'm learning and I take pride in my attention to detail. This week, we applied a convertible collar to our basic bodice, stylized the armhole and applied a facing. My favorite part was using the black style tape to stylize the shape of the collar and armhole. We are beginning to exercise our creativity and that adds interest to the skills we are learning. We also learned how to drape a flared skirt and I will add those pictures later.