Our assignment in Flat Pattern was to draft and sew a short puff sleeve. I have included photos of the steps for those who are curious.
First step: Using a straight sleeve sloper, trace the back half of the cap/underarm to the length you want the sleeve (minus the cuff).
Second Step: Using the slash and spread method, divide the sleeve in half lengthwise, then divide the right half into 3 equal sections and slash to about a 1/4" away from the bottom.
Third Step: Draw straight grainline down center of paper and touch bottom of sleeve to that line. Then, spread equally to create puff at top. I put an inch in between each section and a 1/2" at center since it will be doubled when opened as full sleeve. Then add at least 1/3 of what you added to the width into the height. So since I added 3.5 inches to width, I added about 1 1/4" to the height above 3rd section. Then, using a french curve, true to nothing (meaning draw a curve to touch) at the 1st section. Then, blend the rest of the curve to basically follow the underarm curve.
Final Step: Put grainline on fold of paper and trace to both sides. Voila, a puff sleeve. I added two petals and a cuff. The cuff should be the measurement of your arm, where the bottom of the sleeve will hit plus 1/2" for ease and the cuff will be on the fold. We used 1/2" seam allowances. Cut out fabric and sew!
The sleeve goes with a bodice and skirt that I will showcase later. I included a few of my drawings from Life Drawing. Its always shocking at first to see someone naked, and then I start to think like, "wow, thats a graceful curve on her calf." Silly.
Probably my favorite, but most stressful, part of the week was working on my illustration project. It was also doubling as a project for my Art Concentration application, so it was doubly stressful! But, as it developed I liked it more and more. Below is a photo of the rendering process.
My new favorite technique for rendering denim: put a piece of denim under the page and use colored pencil on top to pick up the pattern of the twill!
The final project. First page: Mood Page
Second page: Swatches
Third and Fourth pages: Figures and Flats
You like? Well, I hope the Art Concentration Panel liked it!
I LIKE A LOT! everything is looking amazing Angela. I love reading about what you're doing in NYC!
ReplyDeletegreat job!! your illustrations are top notch....
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